In the last week or two the monarch butterflies have been making their way down here. Before we moved in August I had my eye on a patch of milkweed in my garden back in Maine, looking for the caterpillars that would soon be hatching out to begin their long journey south to Mexico by the end of October. Such a long way for such little bodies with papery wings to go. But so important that they arrive! In Mexico, the arrival of the monarchs means that the souls of the dead are returning back again, in time for the most beautiful and important holiday of the year, Dia de los Muertos. I keep smiling as I see their fluttering golden selves pass over the highways and through the neighborhoods, potentially bearing precious invisible spiritual cargo.
Last night I went to the best party that I have been to in L.A. yet, (not that I have really been to many others...), but maybe for the first time ever I was really able to fully enjoy and connect to an event that was completely and totally L.A. This couldn't have happened the same way anywhere else. It was the Dia de Los Muertos celebration at the Hollywood Forever Cemetery. First of all, it wasn't the real Dia de Los Muertos, which is actually November 2nd, the same as All Saints Day on the Anglo-Catholic calendar. I think that they may have held it a week early so as not to conflict with some more traditional events. In any case though, Dia de Los Muertos, or Day of the Dead is a traditional Mexican holiday wherein it is believed that the spirits of our ancestors can come back for one night to visit us and once again enjoy some of the pleasures of the material world. Families construct alters in their homes or at the cemeteries, and eat and drink and make merry by dead family members' graves. The alters are full of photos of the loved ones, candles and fresh baked sweet bread, "pan de los muertos", to symbolize the sweetness of this life, fresh flowers, to symbolize it's beauty and brief, passing nature, and often incense, liquor, specially prepared dishes, cigars, and other things that the dead relatives would have enjoyed on earth and would like to have again for the festive celebration. Alters and the ground around them are strewn with marigolds, or "flor de los muertos" to help guide the spirits back home. Streets, homes and places of business are decorated with papel picado, colorful tissue paper with skulls and skeleton images meticulously cut out of it. Children decorate and eat skulls made of sugar. There are processions in the streets with brass bands and people dressed up and dancing in crazy skeleton outfits. Skeleton puppets and dioramas enact scenarios of life after death. Skeletons drinking and dancing in a cantina, getting married, walking in the park with their babies, doing just about everything that we do in life, but with permanent grins on their bony faces and a very laissez-faire attitude about being dead. I love it. I looooove Day of the Dead! I love that idea, that the dead aren't gone from us forever. They just live in another place and we can still spend time with them once in a while, they are still part of our lives. I also love the making light of death, laughing in it's face while at the same time accepting it and welcoming it in as a normal part of life, like everything else that we do. I mean, why not?
We used to have Day of the Dead parties back in Maine, and build an alter in my friend Pam's apartment. I hosted a few times in my house way out in the woods. I have never really lived before in a city though where a large portion of the population celebrates this holiday. Last night we were a few souls in a teeming crowd of revelers trying to get into the cemetery. Lots of Hollywood hipsters and goths got on their best clubbing skeleton outfits, and many Mexican families went as calacas themselves, from grandpa all the way down to the baby in a little black onesie with white bones on it. Hollywood Forever, the hosting venue, is a big cemetery right next to Paramount Studios where famous movie business folks are buried. Dr Phil is apparently filmed next door. We walked by the entrance for his studio audience as we and the many skeletons streamed by. Inside Rudolph Valentino has a huge white mausoleum surrounded by a moat on which candle lit skeletons on rafts were floating around. While the Hollywood Forever version of the Day of the Dead is somewhat commercialized, there are many delicious food vendors and incredible artisans, and some of the alters and calacas are as much art exhibit as they are tribute to the dead, or maybe just art as a tribute to the dead, in any case it was full of all kind of L.A.ers, and it was truly full of beauty and fun and music and an honest spirit of appreciation for the holiday.
We wandered past amazing alter after amazing alter, (If you go to my facebook page you can see the album. Get ready, I took a lot of alter photos!). A band and procession of dancing skeletons passed us by. We ate cheesy tamales and spicy beef soft tacos with cilantro and crisp cinnamon sugar cookies. The incredible smells of sage and pungent herbal incense and grilling beef and roasting churros filled the air. There was a stage with really fun bands, and the main act of the night was one of my favorite musicians, Lila Downs, accompanied by a very cool video montage of Mexican political propaganda art and scenes of food and life. She is almost too cool for words to describe, but her refrain, "...en este mundo material, solamente pasajeros," kind of says it all. Or maybe it was, "Dicen que la fiesta, torito se habe que mal." I am so glad that I got to go to this fiesta!
